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Go to the Teaching Down Complete Guide

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OVERVIEW

What It Is:

A cue that tells your dog to lie down on the ground (belly, elbows, and hips all making contact with the floor) and hold that position until released.

Why It Matters:

  • Foundation for impulse control: Down is a naturally calming position
  • Essential for advanced work: Needed for down-stays, distance work, place training
  • Real-world utility: Settles her in public, at home, during vet visits
  • Building block: Required before teaching down-in-motion, send-to-spot, etc.

What Skills It Builds:

  • Body awareness and control
  • Patience (down is harder to hold than sit)
  • Handler focus during position changes
  • Foundation for calm/settle behaviors

CLEAR CRITERIA: WHAT “DOWN” LOOKS LIKE

Full Down Position:

Body Part Criteria
Elbows Both touching the ground
Belly Touching or very close to ground
Hips On the ground (not hovering)
Front paws Extended forward or tucked under
Back legs Can be tucked (sphinx) or to the side (hip out) - both count

What Counts: Elbows + belly + hips all down = full down.

What Doesn’t Count:

  • “Play bow” (butt in the air, elbows down)
  • Hover down (elbows almost down but not quite touching)
  • One hip up

Be consistent. Only mark and reward FULL downs, or she’ll learn that “close enough” counts.


THE FULL PROGRESSION: 7 PHASES

Phase Overview:

Phase Goal Duration
1 Introduce lure, get the behavior 1-3 days
2 Build speed and reliability with full lure 3-5 days
3 Fade the lure (smaller motion, empty hand) 5-7 days
4 Add verbal cue 3-5 days
5 Verbal cue only, hand signal becomes optional 5-7 days
6 Add duration (2-60+ seconds) 4 weeks
7 Add distance and distractions 2-4 weeks

Total timeline: 6-10 weeks to a rock-solid down with duration, distance, and distraction-proofing.


PHASE 1: INTRODUCE THE LURE (Days 1-3)

Goal:

Get Melon to follow the lure into a down position. She learns the motion = reward.

Setup:

  • High-value treats (small, soft, smelly)
  • Quiet location (living room, courtyard)
  • She’s standing or sitting in front of you
  • 10-15 reps per session, 2-3 sessions per day

Training Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Hold treat in closed fist Sniffs your hand -
2 Lower treat slowly straight down to ground between her front paws Follows with her nose -
3 Once treat reaches ground, slowly pull it toward you (along the ground) Her nose follows, elbows start to lower -
4 Keep luring until elbows + belly + hips all touch ground She’s in full down “YES” + open hand, give treat
5 Wait 1 second She stays down Give second treat while she’s still down
6 Stand up, take a step back She gets up (or cue “break” if you’ve taught it) -
7 Reset and repeat - -

Key Points:

Lure Path:

  • DOWN to the ground (not forward first - that makes her walk forward)
  • THEN toward you along the ground (this folds her into a down)
  • Like an “L” shape: down, then back

If She Doesn’t Lie Down:

  • Make sure treat goes all the way to the ground
  • Pull it slightly under her chest (toward her back paws)
  • Be patient - some dogs take 20-30 seconds to figure it out
  • If she stands up and walks around the lure, reset and try again

If She Backs Up:

  • Lure more slowly
  • Make sure she’s sitting first (easier to down from a sit)
  • Practice near a wall so she can’t back up

Common Mistake: Moving the treat too fast. Go SLOW. Let her figure out that lowering her body gets her closer to the treat.


Success Metric:

By end of Phase 1, she follows the lure into a down position 8 out of 10 times within 10 seconds.


PHASE 2: BUILD SPEED & RELIABILITY (Days 4-8)

Goal:

She drops into a down quickly and reliably when she sees the lure. You’re still using a full lure (treat in hand), but she’s getting FAST.

Setup:

  • Same as Phase 1
  • 15-20 reps per session, 2-3 sessions per day
  • Start varying her starting position (standing, sitting, facing different directions)

Training Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Hold treat in closed fist at her nose level Sniffs hand -
2 Lure straight down to ground (faster than Phase 1) Follows immediately -
3 Pull slightly toward you if needed Drops into down “YES” the instant elbows hit ground
4 Give treat She stays down Give 2-3 treats in a row while down
5 Release (“break”) She gets up -
6 Reset and repeat - -

Key Points:

Build Speed:

  • She should start dropping faster (3-5 seconds instead of 10)
  • If she’s slow, make sure you’re marking the INSTANT her elbows touch
  • Speed comes from clear timing

Add Repetitions:

  • Do 15-20 reps per session now (up from 10-15)
  • She needs volume to build muscle memory

Vary Starting Position:

  • Sometimes she’s sitting
  • Sometimes she’s standing
  • Sometimes she’s slightly to your left or right
  • Goal: “Down” works no matter what position she starts in

Feed Multiple Treats:

  • Give 2-3 treats in a row while she’s holding the down
  • This builds duration (she learns to stay in position)
  • Feed treats between her paws (not above her head - that makes her sit up)

Success Metric:

By end of Phase 2, she drops into a down within 3 seconds of seeing the lure, 9 out of 10 times.


PHASE 3: FADE THE LURE (Days 9-15)

Goal:

She responds to your HAND MOTION (not the treat). You’re transitioning from lure to hand signal.

This Is the Hardest Phase:

Many people get stuck here because they don’t fade systematically. We’ll break it into 3 sub-phases.


Phase 3A: Smaller Lure Motion (Days 9-11)

What You’re Doing:

  • Still have treat in hand, but make the motion smaller and faster
  • Instead of slowly lowering treat all the way to ground, you drop your hand halfway and she should anticipate the rest
Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Treat in fist, start at her nose level Watching your hand -
2 Drop hand HALFWAY to ground (not all the way) She starts to lower -
3 Stop your hand motion She completes the down on her own “YES” the instant elbows hit
4 Bring treat down to her and give it She’s in full down Feed 2-3 treats
5 Release She gets up -

Goal: She anticipates the down and completes it even though your hand didn’t go all the way to the ground.

Reps: 15-20 per session, 2 sessions per day for 2-3 days.


Phase 3B: Empty Hand Motion (Days 12-14)

What You’re Doing:

  • Treat is in your OTHER hand (behind your back or in your pocket)
  • Your lure hand is EMPTY but makes the same motion
  • She downs, THEN you produce the treat from the other hand
Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Empty fist in front of her nose (treat in other hand) Sniffs empty hand -
2 Drop empty hand halfway to ground She follows the motion and downs “YES” when elbows hit
3 Immediately grab treat from other hand She holds down Give treat between her paws
4 Release She gets up -

This Is the Critical Step: She’s now responding to the MOTION, not the treat. The treat appears AFTER the behavior.

If She Doesn’t Down with Empty Hand:

  • Go back to Phase 3A for another day
  • Make sure your hand motion is exactly the same as when you had the treat
  • Be patient - this is a big leap for her brain

Reps: 15-20 per session, 2-3 sessions per day for 2-3 days.


Phase 3C: Subtle Hand Signal (Day 15)

What You’re Doing:

  • Your hand motion gets even smaller
  • Eventually it’s just a small downward point or finger motion
  • Treat still comes from other hand after the behavior
Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Small downward motion (just a few inches) She downs immediately “YES”
2 Treat from other hand She holds down Give treat
3 Release She gets up -

Goal: Your hand signal is now a subtle cue, not a big lure motion.

Reps: 10-15 per session, 2 sessions per day.


Success Metric:

By end of Phase 3, she downs reliably (9/10 times) when you make a small hand motion, with no treat visible in that hand.


PHASE 4: ADD VERBAL CUE (Days 16-20)

Goal:

Pair the word “down” with the hand signal so she starts to learn the verbal cue.

Critical Rule:

VERBAL CUE COMES FIRST, THEN HAND SIGNAL.

If you do hand signal first, she’ll always rely on the visual and ignore the word.


Training Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Say “DOWN” She might look at you, might not move -
2 Immediately (within 0.5 seconds) give hand signal She downs “YES” when elbows hit
3 Treat from other hand She holds down Give treat
4 Release She gets up -

Timing Is Everything:

  • Say “down”
  • Count “one-thousand-one”
  • Give hand signal
  • She downs

After 20-30 Reps: She’ll start to anticipate. When you say “down,” she’ll begin moving BEFORE you give the hand signal. That’s exactly what you want.

Reps: 15-20 per session, 2-3 sessions per day for 4-5 days.


Success Metric:

By end of Phase 4, she starts moving into a down when she hears “down,” before you give the hand signal (at least 5 out of 10 times).


PHASE 5: VERBAL CUE ONLY (Days 21-27)

Goal:

She responds to “down” with no hand signal needed. Hand signal becomes backup/optional.


Phase 5A: Test the Verbal Cue (Days 21-23)

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Say “DOWN” WAIT 2-3 seconds -
2 Does she down? YES: She downs on verbal only “YES” + jackpot (3-4 treats)
2 Does she down? NO: She doesn’t move Give hand signal as backup
3 Release She gets up -

The Test:

  • 50% of reps: Verbal only, wait to see if she does it
  • 50% of reps: Verbal + immediate hand signal (to keep reinforcing the pairing)

Reps: 10-15 per session, 2 sessions per day.


Phase 5B: Increase Verbal-Only Success Rate (Days 24-27)

As She Gets Better:

  • Gradually increase percentage of verbal-only trials
  • Day 24: 60% verbal only
  • Day 25: 70% verbal only
  • Day 26: 80% verbal only
  • Day 27: 90% verbal only

If She Doesn’t Respond to Verbal:

  • Wait 3 seconds
  • Give hand signal as backup
  • Don’t punish or get frustrated - just mark and reward the down
  • Try again next rep

Reps: 10-15 per session, 2 sessions per day.


Success Metric:

By end of Phase 5, she responds to “down” (verbal only) 8-9 out of 10 times, with no hand signal needed.


PHASE 6: ADD DURATION (Weeks 5-8)

Goal:

She holds the down position for extended periods (2 seconds → 60+ seconds).

When to Start:

Only begin Phase 6 after she’s responding reliably to verbal “down” cue (Phase 5 complete).


Duration Progression:

This follows the “Adding Duration to Any Behavior” protocol. Here’s the condensed version for down specifically:

Week Duration Goal Focus
Week 5 2-10 seconds Time only, you’re right next to her
Week 6 10-30 seconds Extended time, reduce treat frequency
Week 7 30-60 seconds Add mild distractions (your movement)
Week 8 60+ seconds Time is solid, ready for distance/bigger distractions

Week 5: Time Only (2-10 Seconds)

Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Cue “down” She downs -
2 WAIT 2 seconds She holds down “GOOD” (calm marker)
3 Feed treat between her paws She stays down -
4 WAIT 2 more seconds She holds “GOOD” + treat
5 Release (“break”) She gets up -

Progression:

  • Days 1-2: 2-4 seconds
  • Days 3-4: 4-6 seconds
  • Days 5-7: 6-10 seconds

Key: Use calm “GOOD” not excited “YES” during duration work.


Week 6: Extended Time (10-30 Seconds)

Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Cue “down” She downs -
2 WAIT 5 seconds She holds “GOOD” (verbal only, no treat)
3 Feed treat She stays -
4 WAIT 5 seconds She holds “GOOD” + treat
5 WAIT 5 seconds She holds “GOOD” + treat
6 Release She gets up -

Progression:

  • Days 1-2: 10-15 seconds
  • Days 3-4: 15-20 seconds
  • Days 5-7: 25-30 seconds

Key: Reduce treat frequency (every 5-7 seconds instead of every 2-3).


Week 7: Mild Distractions (30-60 Seconds)

Add these distractions while she holds the down:

  • You shift your weight
  • You take 1-2 small steps side to side
  • You wave your arms or gesture
  • You look around, scratch your head

Protocol:

Step You Do She Does You Mark/Reward
1 Cue “down” She downs -
2 Add distraction (shift weight) She holds despite distraction “GOOD” + treat immediately
3 WAIT 5 seconds, neutral She holds “GOOD”
4 Add distraction (take small step) She holds “GOOD” + treat
5 WAIT 5 seconds She holds “GOOD” + treat
6 Release She gets up -

Key: Always reward immediately after she holds through a distraction.


Week 8: Solid Duration (60+ Seconds)

By end of Week 8, she should be able to:

  • Hold a down for 60+ seconds
  • With you standing right next to her
  • With mild distractions (your movement)
  • With 3-4 treat deliveries during the duration

Success Metric: She holds down for 60 seconds with mild distractions, 8/10 times.


PHASE 7: ADD DISTANCE & BIGGER DISTRACTIONS (Weeks 9-12+)

Goal:

She holds the down while you move away OR while bigger distractions occur (not both at once initially).

When to Start:

Only after duration is solid at 60+ seconds (Phase 6 complete).


Two Paths: Distance OR Distractions

Path A: Adding Distance

Week Distance Goal Protocol
Week 9 1-2 steps away Cue down → take 1 step back → wait 5 sec → treat → release
Week 10 3-5 steps away Cue down → take 3 steps back → wait 10 sec → return and treat → release
Week 11 10 steps away Cue down → walk 10 steps → wait 15 sec → return and jackpot → release
Week 12+ Out of sight Cue down → step around corner → wait 20 sec → return and jackpot → release

Key: Always return to her to give treats (or toss them to her, but returning builds confidence).


Path B: Adding Bigger Distractions

Week Distraction Level Examples
Week 9 Moderate You walk fully around her, clap hands, drop objects
Week 10 High Another person walks by, doorbell rings, toy on ground nearby
Week 11 Very High Another dog visible at distance, food on ground, kids playing nearby
Week 12+ Real-world Practice in public (parks, cafes, busy sidewalks)

Key: Always jackpot when she holds through a big distraction.


Combining Distance + Distractions (Week 13+)

Once both are solid separately, you can combine them:

  • Cue “down”
  • Walk 5 steps away
  • Have someone walk past (distraction)
  • She holds
  • Return and jackpot
  • Release

Success Metric:

By end of Phase 7, she holds down for 60+ seconds with you 10+ steps away or out of sight, OR with high-level distractions present, 8/10 times.


TROUBLESHOOTING

Problem: She Won’t Lie Down with the Lure

Solutions:

  • Make sure lure goes ALL THE WAY to the ground
  • Pull it slightly back toward her chest/under her
  • Try when she’s already sitting (easier to down from sit)
  • Use higher value treats
  • Practice on a soft surface (carpet, grass) - some dogs don’t like hard floors
  • Be patient - it can take 30+ seconds the first few times

Problem: She Stands Up and Walks Around the Lure

Solutions:

  • Lure more slowly
  • Start with her in a sit
  • Practice with her back to a wall (can’t back up or walk around)
  • Make sure treat is on the ground, not hovering above it

Problem: She Gets Stuck in Phase 3 (Won’t Down with Empty Hand)

Solutions:

  • Go back to Phase 2 for 1-2 more days (build more reps with full lure)
  • Make sure your empty-hand motion is EXACTLY the same as your lure motion
  • Start with treat in your hand, do 3 reps, then switch to empty hand for 1 rep, then back to treat for 3 reps (intermittent)
  • Be patient - this is the hardest phase

Problem: She Only Responds to Hand Signal, Ignores Verbal Cue

Solutions:

  • Make sure you’re saying “down” BEFORE the hand signal (not at the same time)
  • Increase the delay between verbal and hand signal (up to 2-3 seconds)
  • Do more reps in Phase 4 before moving to Phase 5
  • When testing verbal only, wait a full 3 seconds before giving hand signal backup

Problem: She Does a “Hover Down” (Elbows Almost Down But Not Quite)

Solutions:

  • Don’t mark or reward hover downs - only mark full downs
  • If she hovers, wait 2-3 seconds to see if she commits
  • If she doesn’t commit, stand up and reset (no reward)
  • Make sure you’re feeding treats BETWEEN her front paws (not above her head)
  • Be consistent - if you reward hover downs, she’ll think that’s acceptable

Problem: She Breaks Position During Duration Work

Solutions:

  • You’re progressing too fast - go back to shorter durations
  • Feed treats MORE often (every 3-5 seconds instead of 7-10)
  • Make sure you’re using “GOOD” not “YES”
  • Check that you’re feeding treats between her paws (keeps her in position)
  • Remove distractions and just work on time first

Problem: She’s Anxious/Stressed During Down Work

Signs of stress:

  • Yawning, lip licking, whale eye
  • Panting excessively
  • Trying to leave position repeatedly
  • Whining

Solutions:

  • Shorten duration significantly
  • Increase treat frequency
  • Practice in a place she’s very comfortable
  • Make sure down itself is solid before adding duration
  • Build confidence with easier exercises first

INTEGRATION INTO DAILY ROUTINE

Where to Practice “Down” Daily:

Context When Phase/Focus Reps
Bonus Training Session Afternoon (3:45pm) Current phase you’re in 10-15
Courtyard Session 3pm (end of session) Quick maintenance 3-5
Before Meals Breakfast & dinner Test/maintenance 2
Meal Prep While preparing her food Duration practice (Phase 6+) 1 long hold
Settle Time Evening neutral time Duration practice (Phase 6+) 1-2 long holds
Random Throughout Day Whenever Generalization 3-5

Total daily reps: 20-30+ (plenty to progress through phases)


WEEKLY PROGRESSION TRACKING

Weeks 1-2 (Phases 1-2): Learning the Behavior

  • Week 1: She follows lure into down 8/10 times, drops within 3-5 seconds
  • Week 2: She downs quickly on lure 9/10 times, within 2-3 seconds

Weeks 3-4 (Phases 3-4): Fading Lure & Adding Verbal

  • Week 3: She downs with empty hand motion 8/10 times
  • Week 4: She anticipates verbal cue, starts downing before hand signal 5/10 times

Week 5 (Phase 5): Verbal Cue Only

  • She responds to “down” (verbal only) 8-9/10 times, no hand signal needed

Weeks 6-9 (Phase 6): Adding Duration

  • Week 6: Holds down 2-10 seconds
  • Week 7: Holds down 10-30 seconds
  • Week 8: Holds down 30-60 seconds with mild distractions
  • Week 9: Holds down 60+ seconds reliably

Weeks 10-12+ (Phase 7): Distance & Distractions

  • Week 10: Holds down with you 3-5 steps away
  • Week 11: Holds down with you 10 steps away OR moderate distractions
  • Week 12+: Holds down out of sight OR high distractions OR combines both

SUCCESS METRICS: “DOWN” IS SOLID WHEN:

✅ She drops into down within 2 seconds of hearing “down” (verbal only)
✅ No hand signal needed (though you can still use it as backup)
✅ Works from any starting position (sitting, standing, walking)
✅ Works in different locations (apartment, courtyard, parents’ house, public)
✅ She holds the down for 60+ seconds
✅ She holds while you’re 10+ steps away or out of sight
✅ She holds through moderate to high distractions
✅ She’s calm and relaxed during down work (not stressed)
✅ You feel confident cueing it anywhere


FINAL NOTES

Timeline: 6-10 weeks is typical for a rock-solid down with duration and distraction-proofing. Don’t rush it.

Most Important Phases:

  • Phase 3 (fading the lure) - where most people get stuck
  • Phase 6 (duration) - builds the real-world utility of the behavior

Common Mistake: Moving to duration work (Phase 6) before the verbal cue is solid (Phase 5). Make sure she’s responding to “down” reliably before you add duration.

Celebrate Progress: Every phase completion is a win. Going from lure-dependent to verbal-only to 60-second hold is HUGE progress.

This Is a Foundation Skill: Once down is solid, you can use it everywhere - settling at home, calming in public, foundation for place work, distance work, and more.


LET’S BUILD THAT DOWN! 🐾


Next up: Full Integrated Timeline showing how Down, Break, and Cycle games all fit together week by week.